One of the UK’s greatest chefs is about to breathe new life into one of the UK’s most iconic restaurant names. Marco Pierre White makes his London return to the City this month at Wheeler’s Rib Room & Oyster Bar within Threadneedles Hotel.
Housed in an old Victorian bank, the stunning historical dining room and bar complete with its own entrance provides the perfect backdrop to a dining experience that will delight fish fiends and carnivore connoisseurs alike. Open Monday to Friday for lunch and dinner, the menu, written entirely by Pierre White, is affordable and approachable and is bursting with a collection of Marco’s all-time favourites.
Originally created by Captain Wheeler in 1856, the Wheeler’s brand was brought to London by Bernard Walsh where it was made a favourite amongst all the greats including Walt Disney, Lucian Freud and Francis Bacon, amongst others. Its return signals the resurrection of a restaurant legend in the capital, albeit with a modern day menu.
Head chef Stephen Smith executes a stylish menu that includes starters such as indulgent panache of foie gras and duck egg served with toasted brioche; black pig balls with paprika mayonnaise alongside herrings a la Baltique – a salad of beetroot, sour cream and fresh horseradish – in addition to a beautiful bisque of Newburgh crab. Onto the mains where the signature Wheeler’s fish pie features, a deliciously creamy mix of plump white fish, salmon and prawns, alongside grilled Dover sole a la Salamander; macaroni of lobster as well as a coq and shrimp curry with fresh mango, ginger and buttered rice. Stunning steaks, classically served with triple cooked chips, grilled tomato and sauce of choice, include a côte de boeuf for two and entrecote of veal. Desserts are equally superb with the sherry trifle Wally Ladd; Wheeler’s baked cheesecake with a passion fruit sauce and Cambridge burnt cream.
The menu is complemented with a wide range of international wines all keenly priced, with the house selection starting from just £19.95 per bottle.
Huge glass windows with intricate iron bar exterior shutters complement the stunning glass chandeliers suspended from the high ceilings whilst pops of red colour, in the form of cosy banquette seating and chairs with quirky bull’s nose rings on the back, punctuate the otherwise elegant space. The walls feature a collection of oversized black and white images of Marco, from his characteristic portrait poses to an 80s shot of Marco with his then-young comrades, Gordon Ramsay and Stephen Terry, all taken from his infamous book, ‘White Heat. Also hanging are striking framed prints from Roger Hopwood and his And Then There Were None series that investigates the relationship between photography and the picturesque as well as a specially commissioned oil painting by British landscape artist Alan Rankle.
For more casual dining and sipping, the bar is the perfect spot for a light lunch or to unwind with a glass of champagne and a half a dozen oysters. Pull up a stool and enjoy freshly shucked bivalves such as Maldon Natives and Carlingford Rocks, dispensed from the bar’s dedicated oyster station. Regularly changing dishes from the bar’s blackboard might include the likes of salt & pepper squid with a lime mayonnaise; smoked Severn & Wye salmon with brown bread and butter; a Scottish steak sandwich with triple cooked fries or a Wheeler’s club sandwich.
The drinks offering comes in the form of a wide range of champagnes, bottled beers including The Governor, an all malt British beer and cider created by Pierre White and JW Lees at the Greengate Brewer and a distinctive array of gins. The cocktail list is filled with classics and contemporary concoctions such as the Burns Aperitif, a unique blend of whisky with honey, herbs and spices added to a dry fino sherry with a hint of vermouth.
Wheeler’s Rib Room & Oyster Bar – Marco Pierre White is back in the City and he means business.
Wheeler’s Rib Room & Oyster Bar
5 Threadneedle Street, London EC2R 8AY